I didn’t really know what carnival was, I just wanted to go to Venice for my honeymoon with Yumichan and I thought I’d time it to coincide with a festival. Now I know what carnival is. Carnival is incredible.
The narrow streets of Venice were full, at times even Piazza San Marco was full, of people with cameras and people in costume. Every second window passed revealed a universe of masks, some elaborate, some simple and all sinister, hinting at the goings on in which we were invited to partake when we donned our garb and attended the Afternoon of Saint Valentine – Homage of all Lovers. We would be attending a ball in a candle-lit palace after enjoying the Hot Chocolate in Costume event at the Gran Caffe Lavena, one of the Renaissance era caffes guarding the edge of San Marco.
We stayed in a rooftop apartment across the grand canal from San Marco. 80 steps from the ground to the door, each counted because each had to be climbed after a long day of wondering, deliberately lost, in Venice’s maze. The atmosphere was the most festive I have ever seen, and it is no difficult comparison. As we walked by, children and adults would shower confetti on us and in every direction masks were worn and those with the most admirable costumes would pose and be captured by the thousands of cameras.
When the time came, we retrieved our own costumes, selected by an excited pair of elderly venetian ladies from a room that looked like the backstage of Moulin Rouge, and returned to our apartment to change identities. Now, we were nameless. Making our way to San Marco, through the ever thickening crowd, stopping for photographs requested by the tourist sea, with myself repeatedly stepping on Yumi’s pink train which flowed behind her. When we eventually arrived at the caffe, we were treated to belly dancing while we drank our hot chocolate and ate our sweets. Surreal, all attendees wore costume and mask and as tourists gathered at the windows, peering in, two large, bright red, masked creatures guarded the door and refused them entry.
The ball was already in progress, so we made our way through the masses to the water’s edge. Yumi’s pink dress attracting little girls asked for photos with us, but really wanted to be her. The crowds parted for us somewhat as we were a part of the scenery, strolling slowly (I was wearing high heeled shoes) across the huge square, fascinated by the sight of a decadent past revived.
A water taxi later, and we stepped onto the small pier that formed the water entrance to the palace. Fashionably late, we deposited our coats and entered the main room of the palace. I had no clear vision of what to expect. I supposed some dancing, from which Yumi and I abstain, but that was happily not to be. The main room has filled with lines of seated, masked revellers and at the head of the room, a string quartet played. As we joined the audience, and the music ended, the quartet was replaced by a woman singing, accompanied by piano. Between performances, we retired to another room for drinks and hors’ devours, chatting with the other people who had become Venetians for the night.
After our time in Venice, we travelled to Rome to see the old world. Staying in a hotel by the mouth of St. Peters arms, we walked miles each day, taking in the columns upon columns, wandering through the Colosseum and hunting for good Italian food. Rome is certainly impressive, for scale alone, if nothing else. The Vatican is a fine statement about wealth and power, comically housing people who claim to be self-sacrificing and charitable. For me, its most interesting treasure is the hallway leading to the Sistine Chapel, walled with maps of the old world, revealing a multitude of tiny villages covering the landscape rather than our post-industrial revolution mega cities. It rivals, but does not beat the map room within the
Doge’s Palace in Venice. I’m not entirely sure why, but I love old maps and globes where large sections are left blank for lack of exploration and sea monsters and drawn in it’s place.
Rome, for all its splendour, left a bit of a bad taste in my mouth due to our robbery. Some pickpockets attempted to lift the contents of our bags, and while I realised in time to stop them from emptying mine, they managed to steal a packet of film for Yumi’s polariod camera. While the item stolen was immaterial and certainly useless for them (which made us feel happy), I find the presence of crime, at least low-level crime that effects me, intolerable after living in Tokyo. Rather than dwelling on the negative, though, when I remember that event, it reminds me how much I love Japan and it’s largely homogeneous population of considerate people.
Now, we are wondering where our next trip will take us. Australia? I think it should be, but the question is where to stop on the way. Bali? Malaysia? I leave it in Yumi’s hands.